You can smell it before you see it: the warm cloud of cardamom and clove from a chai wallah’s kettle. You can hear it: the layered symphony of temple bells, car horns, and Bollywood beats bleeding out of an auto-rickshaw. This is India—a place where the answer to “What time is it?” is almost always, “ Thoda time ” (a little bit of time).
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To live like an Indian is to accept that life is a khel (a game). You will get stuck in traffic, but you will hear a great song. You will sweat in the heat, but you will get the best mango of your life. You will disagree with your uncle about politics, but you will laugh until your stomach hurts over dinner. You can smell it before you see it: